01479 831583 bob@barton.myzen.co.uk

Mountaineering

 

Bob started to climb on gritstone while still at school. Soon he was climbing regularly in Wales, the Lakes and Scotland and first climbed in the Alps when seventeen years of age.

 

After university he joined an expedition to Arctic Norway, doing some fantastic granite climbs near Narvik with John Cardy.

 

An expedition to the Hindu Kush in 1970 was a wonderful mountaineering education and soon after was followed by the first ascent of the Quille Couloir Direct, a difficult winter climb on Mt Blanc du Tacul climbed with Bob Shaw

 

A very successful alpine season with Peter Boardman resulted in the North Faces of the Doldenhorn, the Nesthorn and the Lauterbrunnen Breithorn and the following year Bob went to the Karakoram with Jon Prosser for exploratory mountaineering on the Chogolisa Glacier.

 

Whilst instructing at Glenmore Lodge he was able to climb extensively in Scotland with routes such as the Skye Ridge in winter, and Crab Crawl on Creag Meagaidh and the Old Man of Hoy.

 

Other routes of note were the West Rib of Denali in Alaska, a new direct line on the West Face of Batian in Kenya and another new and direct line on the Heim Glacier on Kilimanjaro. Bob and Allen Fyffe were regular climbing partners in Scotland, climbed in the wonderful Yosemite valley and also made the first ascent of the South face of Kalanka and the SE Pillar of Bhagirathi III – a kind of Himalayan Walker Spur – and a number of climbs in Peru.

 

Bob and Allen joined Mal Duff’s expedition to Everest’s unclimbed NE Ridge. This was a tough expedition with no high altitude Sherpa support. Nobody reached the summit.

He qualified as an International Mountain Guide in 1978 and led parties in many parts of the Alps and Scotland on foot and on ski.  With two colleagues he ran avalanche courses in La Grave under the aegis of the European Avalanche School.